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Archive-name: dogs-faq/breeds/goldens Posting-frequency: 30 days Last-modified: 11 Feb 1995 This is a regularly posted faq and appears every thirty days in rec.pets.dogs and news.answers. The latest version of this file is a hypertext document available via the Web at http://www.io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/breeds/homepage.html The most recently posted ASCII version of this file is available via anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu in the directory pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds It is also available via email: check the weekly posting Cindy Tittle Moore (tittle@netcom.com) puts out entitled "Complete List of rec.pets.dogs FAQs" for details. GOLDEN RETRIEVERS Authors * Cindy Tittle Moore, tittle@netcom.com with significant parts written and contributed by + Bobbi Newman, newman@icepuppy.stortek.com (assorted FAQ questions) + Helen Redlus, hredlus@rahul.net (medical problems information) + Edell Marie Schaefer, schaefer@omnifest.uwm.edu (literature for background) + Susan Todhunter, susan@vmark.com (info on YGRR calendar) and with feedback and help from the Golden mailing list, especially Eric Johnson, Barbara Kissack, Ed Morrow, and Paul Popelka. Currently Helen Redlus is maintaining this FAQ. Copyright 1994 by Cindy Tittle Moore. _________________________________________________________________ Revision history * Date Created: June 30, 1994 * Additional information: December 15, 1994 * GRCA comments and corrections added: February 11, 1995 Table Of Contents * History * Characteristics and Temperament * Description and AKC Standard * Medical Problems * Grooming * Frequently Asked Questions * The Golden Retriever Club of America * The Golden Retriever Club of Canada * Breed Clubs * Hunting Clubs * Golden Retriever Rescue * The Golden Retriever Email List * The Golden Retriever WWW page * Bibliography * Periodicals * Misc _________________________________________________________________ History During the nineteenth century, there was an ongoing quest among the British gentry for the perfect hunting dog. As a result, most of today's retrievers and many other hunting dogs have their roots in these early efforts. Many attempted this goal by acquiring and breeding good hunting dogs, using outcrosses to other breeds in an effort to bring in other desirable qualities. Sometimes this worked, more often it did not. That the exact origins of several of several retriever breeds is unclear is due to the somewhat haphazard or occasionally secretive methods used at the time. The origin of the Golden Retriever, in contrast, lies in the careful work of one man, Sir Dudley Marjoriebanks (later the first Lord Tweedmouth) who also set out to breed a good hunting dog. A colorful folk tale has him buying Russian circus dogs, reportedly 100+ lbs., 30 inches at the shoulder, pale blonde and extremely intelligent as the foundation for his breed. This fanciful story even appears in the GRCA's Yearbook as late as 1950. However, examination of his Stud Book, covering the years from 1835 to 1890 and made publicly available in 1952, records no such purchase but instead details a careful line-breeding program unusual at that time and place for dogs. In 1865, Lord Tweedmouth purchased a yellow retriever "Nous" from an unregistered litter of otherwise black Wavy-Coated Retrievers. Nous was later bred with "Belle", a Tweed Water Spaniel, and the resulting litter produced four bitches that were instrumental to his breeding program. One of them, "Cowslip," he carefully bred back to for over twenty years in what breeders today call a line-breeding program. Over the years, several outcrosses, to black Wavy Coated Retrievers, an Irish Setter, and later a sandy-colored Bloodhound occurred as he sought to improve and fix his new breed. The coat textures of the Goldens of this time reportedly varied, as did the color, which ranged from fox red to light cream. The Wavy-Coated Retrievers were the ancestors of today's Flat-Coat Retriever and they in turn were developed from crossing setters with the lesser St. John's Water Dog of Newfoundland. (As Labradors were developed from other retriever breeds crossed with the St. John's Water Dog, these two breeds are cousins, but not descended from one or the other.) The Tweed Water Spaniel, now extinct, came from early water dogs crossed with land or field spaniels to develop Water Spaniels. These spaniels were developed in the Tweed River area and were described by contemporaries as a small liver-colored retriever ("liver" at the time signifying any shade from yellow to brown). The Kennel Club of England accepted the first Goldens for registration in 1903. At the time, they were registered as "Flat Coats -- Golden". By 1904 the first Golden placement at a field trial was recorded. Among the first shown in conformation were Culham Brass and Culham Copper. In 1911, they were recognized as a separate breed, at first called "Yellow or Golden Retrievers," but within several years the "Yellow" was forever dropped from their name. The first Golden in Canada seems to have been brought over by Hon. Archie Marjoriebanks in 1881. The Canadian Kennel Club first recognized the breed in 1927. In 1928, Mr. M.M. Armstrong of Winnipeg took an interest in the breed and his Gilnockie kennel was started. At his death, Gilhockie was transferred to Col. Samuel Magoffin's kennel in Denver, Colorado, and from this he eventually imported his first Golden, Am/Can CH Speedwell Pluto. The Golden Retriever Club of Canada was formed in 1958 with the original name of the Golden Retriever Club of Ontario. In 1960 it became the Golden Retriever Club of Canada and to this day has grown steadily. Goldens have been in the US since about 1890, with the earliest recorded dog being Hon. Archie Marjoriebanks's "Lady" in 1894. The first AKC registered Golden was Robert Appleton's Lomberdale Blondin. But there was no serious interest in them until about 1930 when Magoffin's import, CH Speedwell Pluto, captured widespread interest. The Golden Retriever was subsequently recognized by the AKC in 1932. At that time, they were a rare breed. In 1938, a group of Golden Retriever fanciers formed the Golden Retriever Club of America (GRCA) which is today among the largest of the parent breed clubs in the AKC, numbering about 4500 members. _________________________________________________________________ Characteristics and Temperament Dogs in general are pack-oriented animals. They need to interact with their pack on a regular basis to be secure. Goldens in particular have been bred through the years to make an excellent companion for people - whether it is to sit quietly in a duck blind until it is time to retrieve or as a service dog or in any other capacity. This is what makes their nature as it is. Because of this, they, even more so than some other breeds, need to interact with their people. Goldens are particularly forgiving dogs and will allow you to make many mistakes while still wanting nothing more than to please and be acknowledged for it with a scratch behind the ear. Because Goldens are such people-oriented dogs, it's important that they live WITH their owners. A Golden relegated to the backyard while his family is in the house is an unhappy Golden. It is imperative that your Golden be regularly included in family activities. Once fully grown, they are a robust dog and will enjoy many activities with you such as walking, hiking, jogging, hunting, etc. As is common with the retriever breeds, this is a breed slow to fully mature both mentally and physically. At a year of age, they will have their full height, but their full weight will be another year or two in coming. Mentally, they remain puppies for a long time (up to two or three years of age) and many retain a very playful and clownish personality for most of their lives. Because of their kindly and easy going nature, Goldens are a popular breed. Many people, in hoping to cash in on this popularity, breed Goldens without regard to their temperament or other good attributes. You should be very selective in picking out a puppy from a breeder. Your best sources for Goldens are from a breed rescue organization that carefully screens its dogs, or from a reputable breeder who is dedicated to the overall improvement of the breed. The choice you make now will be one you live with for the next decade, so choose carefully. _________________________________________________________________ Description and AKC Standard The following is the Breed Standard for the Golden Retriever as revised and submitted by the Golden Retriever Club of America, Inc.(GRCA) and approved by the Board of Directors of the American Kennel Club (AKC) effective January 1, 1982. It is presented here in the format as set forth by the AKC in their program to standardize the format of all breed standards. The following was approved by the GRCA Board of Directors September 1990 General Appearance: A symmetrical, powerful, active dog, sound and well put together, not clumsy nor long in the leg, displaying a kindly expression and possessing a personality that is eager, alert and self-confident. Primarily a hunting dog, he should be shown in hard working condition. Over-all appearance, balance, gait and purpose to be given more emphasis than any of his component parts. Faults: Any departure from the described ideal shall be considered faulty to the degree to which it interferes with the breed's purpose or is contrary to breed character Size, Proportion, Substance: Males 23-24 inches in height at withers; females 21.5-22.5 inches. Dogs up to one inch above or below standard size should be proportionately penalized. Deviation in height of more than one inch from the standard shall disqualify. Length from breastbone to point of buttocks slightly greater than height at withers in ratio of 12:11. Weight for dogs 65-75 pounds; bitches 55-65 pounds. Head: Broad in skull, slightly arched laterally and longitudinally without prominence of frontal bones (forehead) or occipital bones. Stope well defined but not abrupt. Foreface deep and wide, nearly as long as skull. Muzzle straight in profile, blending smoothly and strongly into skull; when viewed in profile or from above, slightly deeper and wider at stop than at top. No heaviness in flews. Removal of whiskers is permitted but not preferred. Eyes: Friendly and intelligent in expression, medium large with dark, close-fitting rims, set well apart and reasonably deep in sockets. Color preferably dark brown; medium brown acceptable. Slant eyes and narrow, triangular eyes detract from correct expression and are to be faulted. No white or haw visible when looking straight ahead. Dogs showing evidence of functional abnormality of eyelids or eyelashes (such as, but not limited to, trichiasis, entropion, ectropion, or distichiasis) are to be excused from the ring. Ears: Rather short with front edge attached well behind and just above the eye and falling close to cheek. When pulled forward, tip of ear should just cover the eye. Low, hound-like ear set to be faulted. Nose: Black or brownish black, though fading to a lighter shade in cold weather not serious. Pink nose or one seriously lacking in pigmentation to be faulted. Teeth: Scissors bite, in which the outer side of the lower incisors touches the inner side of the upper scissors. Undershot or overshot bite is a disqualification. Misalignment of teeth (irregular placement of incisors) or level bite (incisors meet each other edge to edge) is undesireable, but not to be confused with undershot or overshot. Full dentition. Obvious gaps are serious faults. Neck, Topline, Body: Neck, Medium long, merging gradually into well laid back shoulders, giving sturdy, muscular appearance. No throatiness. Back line strong and level from withers to slightly sloping croup, whether standing or moving. Sloping back line, roach or sway back, flat or steep croup to be faulted. Body: Well-balanced, short coupled, deep through the chest. Chest between forelegs at least as wide as a man's closed hand including thumb, with well developed forechest. Brisket extends to elbow. Ribs long and well sprung but not barrel shaped, extending well towards hindquarters. Loin short, muscular, wide and deep, with very little tuck-up. Back line strong and level from withers to slighly sloping coup, whether standing or moving. Slabsidedness, narrow chest, lack of depth in bricket, sloping back line, roach or sway back, excessive tuck-up, flat or steep croup to be faulted. Tail: Well set on, thick and muscular at the base, following the natural line of the croup. Tail bones extend to, but not below, the point of hock. Carried with merry action, level or with some moderate upward curve; never curled over back nor between legs. Forequarters: Muscular, well co-ordinated with hind quarters and capable of free movement. Shoulder bladdes long and well laid back with upper tips fairly close together at withers. Upper arms appear about the same length as the blades, close to the ribs without looseness. Legs, viewed from the front, straight with good bone, but not to the point of coarseness. Pasterns short and strong, sloping slightly with no suggestion of weakness. Dewclaws on forlegs may be removed, but are normally left on. Feet: Medium size, round, compact, and well knuckled, with thick pads. Excess hair may be trimmed to show natural size and contour. Dewclaws on forelegs may be removed, but are normally left on. Splayed or hare feet to be faulted. Hindquarters: Broad and strongly muscled. Profile of croup slopes slightly; the pelvic bone slopes at a slightly greater angle (approximately 30 degrees from horizonal). In a natural stance, the femur joins the pelvis at approximately a 90 degree angle; stifles well bent; hocks well let down with short strong rear pasterns. Legs straight when viewed from the rear. Cow hocks, spread hocks, and sickle hocks to be faulted. Coat: Dense and water repellent with good undercoat. Outer coat firm and resilient, neither coarse nor silky, lying close to body; may be straight or wavy. Moderate feathering on back of forelegs and underbody; heavier feathering on front of neck, back of thighs and underside of tail. Coat on head, paws, and front of legs is short and even. Exessive length, open coats, and limp, soft coats are very undesirable Feet may be trimmed and stray hairs neatened, but the natural appearance of coat and outline should not be altered by cutting or clipping. Color: Rich lustrous golden of various shades. Feathering may be lighter than rest of coat. With the exception of greying or whitening of face or body due to age, any white marking, other than a few white haris on the chest, should be penalized according to its extent. Allowable light shadings are not to be confused with white markings. Predominant body color which is either extremely pale or extremely dark is undesirable. Some latitude should be given to the light puppy whose coloring shows promise of deepening with maturity. Any noticeable area of black or other off-color hair is a serious fault. Gait: When trotting, gait is free, smooth, powerful, and well coordinated, showing good reach. Viewed from any position, legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. As speed increases, feet tend to converge toward center line of balance. It is recommended that dogs be shown on a loose lead to reflect true gait. Temperament: Friendly, reliable, and trustworthy. Quarrelsomeness or hostility towards other dogs or people in normal situations or an unwarranted show of timidity or nervousness is not in keeping with the Golden Retriever character. Such actions should be penalized according to their significance. Disqualifications: 1. Deviation in height of more than one inch from standard either way. 2. Undershot or overshot bite. _________________________________________________________________ Medical Problems HIP DYSPLASIA The term hip dysplasia means poor development of the formation of the hip joint, and describes a developmental disease in young dogs of many different breeds. Unsound hip joints are a common problem in the larger breeds, and hip dysplasia can be a serious problem in any dog that is to be trained for a demanding activity. Hip dysplasia may be diagnosed by x-ray between six months and one year of age, but this is not entirely reliable, and dogs intended for breeding should be x-rayed when fully mature. Two years of age is considered to be the minimum age for accurate x-ray determination of desirable conformation. Needless to say, both parents of the puppy you are considering should have OFA certification. The more OFA numbers in the pedigree (including littermates of the parents, grandparents, and previous offspring of either parent), the better off your puppy is. Goldens and other retriever breeds often seem to have high pain thresholds and do not show signs of pain. An x-ray does not always show you how your dog feels, as many dysplastic Goldens are completely asymptomatic, especially when younger. EYE DISEASE Some Goldens carry genes for Central Progressive Retinal Atrophy (CPRA) which is progressive deterioration of the light-receptive area (retina) of the eye, and may result in complete blindness at a young age. Hereditary cataracts are also common eye problems in the Golden Retriever. Cataract is any opacity within the lens of the eye. Examination by a Board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist is necessary to determine if the cataract is or is not of concern from a genetic standpoint. If there is any questions, the dog should **NOT** be recommended for breeding. Golden Retrievers used for breeding stock should be examined annually until at least eight years of age or longer, as hereditary eye problems can develop at varying ages. Dogs that have undergone examination by a Board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and found to be free of hereditary eye disease can be registered with the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). VON WILLEBRAND'S DISEASE Canine von Willebrand's Disease is an inherited deficiency in one of the clotting factors of the blood. It is similar to hemophilia in some respects, but may appear either male or female. "Carriers" may show no overt symptoms of the disease, but their progeny can have severe bleeding problems. There is a blood test available which will identify dogs with the VWD trait; complete information can be obained from Dr. W. Jean Dodds, New York State Department of Health, Division of Laboratories and Research, Albany, New York 12201. The laboratory will test, free of charge, properly prepared samples sent to Dr. Dodds. As von Willebrand's Disease in Golden Retrievers is considered an incomplete dominant, dogs carrying the trait (whether showing symptoms or not) will pass it on to half of their offspring, even if bred to a mate free of the trait. If VWD carrier animals are bred, it is recommended that they be bred only to mates that test free of this gene, and that their progeny be tested for VWD. Animals clinically affected with VWD should not be bred. Dogs affected with VWD may have symptoms varying from very mild to severe or lethal. These bleeding problems include prolonged bleeding from toenails cut too short, hemorrhage from even minor surgical procedures, lameness, hematomas, stillbirths or early death of newborn puppies, intestinal bleeding, and son on. The bleeding primarily involves mucosal surfaces (gastrointestinal tract, nose-bleeds, blood in the uring, vaginal or penile bleeding) and is aggravated by stress situations (other physiological, pathological, emotional or hormonal conditions). EPILEPSY Seizure disorders may arise from a variety of environmental factors including viral infections, other diseases and trauma. While an isolated seizure does not necessarily constitute a problem, dogs subject to recurring seizures should not be bred. Veterinarians can prescribe medication to control recurring seizures, however medication is not always completely effective. Epilepsy generally does not affect a dog's health or longevity, but all such dogs should be immediately neutered and not used for breeding stock. SUBVALVULAR AORTIC STENOSIS (SAS) SAS, a hereditary heart disease, is known to occur in the Golden Retriever breed. There is no registry for screenings for SAS, however, breeders have begun to have their dogs screened by Board-Certified Veterinary Cardiologists. The usual screening is auscultation. If there is any suspicion in the Cardiologist's mind, she/he may suggest that an echocardiogram be run to better trace the blood flow. The typical proof that a breeder has had his/her breeding stock screened for SAS is a letter signed by a Board-Certified Veterinary Cardiologist indicating that the animal is, in his/her opinion, free from SAS. HYPOTHYROIDISM Hypothyroidism is characterized by atrophy or malfunction of the thyroid gland. Clinical symptoms include obesity, lethargy, and/or coat problems. Affected animals may also have various reproductive problems including irregular or absent heat cycle and lack of fertility in both male and female. Diagnosis of hypothyroidism is by laboratory tests measuring levels of T3 and T4 (produced by the thyroid gland) in the blood. Treatment consists of daily administration of thyroid supplement orally. When treated successfully the prognosis is excellent and the dog's lifespan is normal. Lifelong thyroid supplementation may be required. Many clinically normal, healthy Goldens may test slightly under the accepted range of "normal" T3 and T4 levels and it is quite possible that the normal values for this breed may be slightly lower than the values used for the general canine population. There are some dogs that will have epileptic attacks when hypothyroid and stop seizuring when put on thyroid. While there is a link, the hypothyroid condition does not cause epilepsy, and the dog should still be monitored for epilepsy. ALLERGIES Skin allergies are very common in Golden Retrievers and the offending allergens are numerous - a flea bite, airborne pollen, dust, mold, food. Symptoms can range from constant biting, licking and scratching to constant, chronic ear infections. In many cases diet can play a large roll in the allergic dog. If you suspect you have an allergic animal try feeding one of the many hypo-allergenic diets that are currently available at quality pet supply stores. A book that is often recommended in helping you deal with an allergic pet is Pet Allergies by Dr. Alfred Plechner. Allergies coupled with low thyroid levels are commonly seen and it is worth testing for the other if you see the one in your dog. _________________________________________________________________ Grooming Because of the Golden's coat, you must commit to regular grooming of your dog. Such grooming will also help reduce the amount of overall shedding. You should be sure to start grooming in puppyhood even when it's not strictly necessary so that he quickly learns to enjoy the process and not to put up a fuss. If you groom regularly, about once a week or two, the whole procedure will take about 1/2 hour. Brush a little daily while your dog is shedding and that will help control the amount shedded. Also if your Golden picks up burrs and other nasties while outside, take a few moments right away after you return to comb them out. Start with a thorough brushing. Use a pin brush on the featherings, chest, ears, and tail. Use a slicker on the rest of the body. After brushing, you can use a comb to remove more loose coat. Use this opportunity to check for fleas, ticks, and incipient skin problems. Goldens seem to be especially prone to hot spots. Inspect and clean ears at this time too, and trim your dog's nails. If you plan to bathe your Golden, brush him thoroughly first: wet tangles only become tighter. Always use a shampoo formulated for dogs since shampoos for humans will dry the skin out. Goldens are double coated breeds and should not be bathed often to avoid losing the undercoat. In many cases, you can simply wash the legs and undersides if they are dirty, wait for the dirt to dry and brush it out, or (after brushing) rinse the dog off with plain water and no shampoo. A properly maintained coat should clean up easily despite the amount of fur present. Goldens with the proper coat texture should not have problems with matting if they are regularly groomed. However, a coat that is softer and silkier than the desired standard will mat easily: some owners have reported the overnight appearance of mats. Smaller mats may be picked out with a metal comb, if the dog is patient enough. Larger mats will need to be removed. Don't use scissors as it is too easy to injure the dog if he moves at the wrong time. Commercially available are mat breakers (check the mail order catalogs) which can safely cut through mats and make them easy to remove. Places to look for mats include behind the ear, along the feathering, especially in the rear, and the tail. For dogs with persistent problems, you may need to brush the problem areas more frequently, or even trim them to some extent. It may help to find a groomer you like and trust and ask them for advice. Since mats grow larger, and tighten the trapped fur, they are eventually painful to your dog. They also serve as an excellent area for fleas and skin irritations to start, so keeping your dog mat-free is important. Tip: Using a flea comb is a good way to check for fleas on your dog, remove undercoats, keep tabs on the skin's condition and minimize mats, all in one! _________________________________________________________________ Frequently Asked Questions How much do they shed? Goldens shed a lot. They have an abundance of coat as well as feathering and they will produce a more or less constant amount of hair in your house. Some of this can be alleviated with regular and thorough brushing, but if you have an aversion to dog hair in your house, a Golden will not be a good choice. Are they good with kids? Most Goldens are wonderful with kids, especially when they have been regularly exposed to well-behaved children as puppies. But as with any breed, never leave very young children and dogs together unattended. Just as the dog could easily accidentally hurt the children, so could they hurt him by poking him in the eyes or ears or pulling his tail. How much exercise do they need? They are a sporting breed and as such need plenty of exercise. They will benefit best from regular periods of high intensity activity once they are fully grown. This includes a quick session of fetching, romping with other dogs, running along the beach and so on. You do need to be careful with puppies under 18 months or so; while they need exercise, it must not be forced or sustained. For example, you cannot take them jogging or biking with you until they are fully grown, or you will damage their joints How about swimming? Most Goldens love to swim, and it's excellent exercise for them, even when young. Introduce them to water and let them explore on their own. If they are unsure about the water, you might get in and swim out a bit to encourage them, but let them take their own time. Younger puppies might be more standoffish to water than they would be in another month or two; that's normal. Never toss a dog into water that doesn't want to go in! Sometimes a water crazy older dog is perfect to have along to help teach your dog to appreciate swimming. You might also try tossing in a toy for him to get, but be prepared to go out and retrieve it yourself if he doesn't! If you have a swimming pool, just remember that the dog hair in the pool will probably mean you need to clean the pool more frequently if you dog goes in it a lot. Be sure that your dog knows how to get out of the swimming pool; it's probably not a good idea to leave him unattended with access to the pool. Do they bark a lot? Not typically, but they can if they are bored. How do they do in hot weather? As long as they have access to shade, free moving air, and water, they will do just fine in the heat. Don't exercise them in the heat of the day, and be sure you have water with you when you do exercise them later. They're supposed to be good in the obedience ring, aren't they? Goldens are typically very eager to please their owners. This translates into their being both relatively easy to train for obedience and to having a good attitude in the ring. While not all Goldens make good competitive obedience dogs, you will see many of them in the obedience ring. Are they any good as hunting dogs? In field trials? Goldens do not do as well as Labradors in the field trials which are, in all fairness, biased toward the sort of work the Labrador was bred to do. But many Goldens make excellent hunters in real hunting situations. Is there a split in hunting and show lines? What should I look for? There is something of a split between show, field, and even obedience lines. As with any sport that becomes highly competitive, the specialization intensifies. With Goldens, that means the show dogs will have more coat and bone and be more laid back. The field dogs generally have less coat, more drive and be intensely "birdy" (interested in birds) with good noses. The obedience dogs often have less coat and a high drive but may or may not be birdy. You should consider carefully the differences between the different lines when picking your own dog out so that there are no surprises. Looking at the parents and any of their previous offspring is a good approach. But no matter which lines you are interested in, you should try to find the puppies that are well balanced with correct structure and conformation as the base. Whether you are interested in pet, show, hunting, etc., will determine other characteristics that you want. But an unsound dog does not make a good show dog, hunting dog, obedience dog, or pet! Do males or females make better pets (what are the differences)? Besides the physical differences, personal preference is probably the only big one here. Many people think that the males are slightly more "teddy-bear like" than the females. Neither should show any type of aggression (including dog aggression). If left unaltered, females will sometimes show a change in personality when they are coming into heat and when they are in heat. Most often, they seem to become a bit more clingy. During this time, they may not tolerate males sniffing around them or they may be extremely interested in males. If a male is left intact and used for breeding purposes and there is another intact male and a bitch in heat, the males might show some competitive aggression. However, neutered males and females will mostly differ in size (the females will be smaller) and their individual personalities. Both males and females are good with children. For your best predictor of personality, be sure to ask about and try to meet and interact with the puppy's sire and dam. There are tests that can be done to help determine the puppy's alphaness, independence, and abilities. Be sure to ask your breeder about these. Also, socializing the puppy and general obedience training are always important. What genetic screenings should you look for when puppy hunting? The "big three" in Goldens are OFA, CERF, and SAS. The parents of the puppies you are considering should be cleared for at least these three. (For further information on these and other problems, see the Medical Problems section.) Other things breeders should take into consideration in their breeding stock include: Von Willebrand's, epilepsy, allergies, skin disorders. You should ask your breeder about these. Why do your two Goldens look so different? The Golden is supposed to be a mid-to-large size dog, suitable for sitting in a duck blind all day with, as well as small enough to be able to haul over the side of a boat all wet (after a retrieve). The standard has a range of acceptable sizes, for females it is 21 1/2-22 1/2 inches at the shoulder, for males it is 23-24 inches at the shoulder, with an inch allowance either way. So, just in size, if you have a small female (which could be 20 1/2 inches, about 45 pounds) and a large male (which could be 25 inches, about 95 pounds) there is a BIG difference. Now, if you add variations in coat, which may come from the "type" of breeding, you can get quite a physical difference. Through the years, breeders have bred for different qualities. Some breeders are interested purely in physical appearance for show purposes. Since "big and hairy" looks stunning in the show ring and wins, these breeders have bred for those characteristics. Other breeders have bred only for field ability. Since the smaller (and often darker colored) dogs have been the ones that are faster and flashier in the field, these breeders have tended to breed for those characteristics. There are other types, as well, but these are the most common. Just because a dog is of the "conformation" type does NOT mean that it cannot work in the field, just as being of the "field" type does NOT mean that that dog cannot win in the show ring. When do they grow up? Physically, Goldens are completely mature by 2 years of age. Mentally, well, that depends on the individual, but usually not before 3 years of age. Even though Goldens are physically mature by 2, you may notice changes in them well past that time. Remember, by nature Goldens are fun-loving and happy-go-lucky, so their perceived maturity may be less because of it. What are hot spots? They look like open, oozing sores about the size of a quarter or larger on the dog. Treatment involves keeping the sore clean and dry until it heals. Shaving the area promotes air circulation; both Sulfodene and witch hazel have been recommended as astringent cleaners. You should avoid ointments and other topical applications which would keep the area moist. Hot spots are often caused by allergies. This can be allergies to fleas (most common), allergies to food, or hormonal (including thyroid, adrenal, and even testosterone levels) imbalances. Goldens, especially those with allergies, seem to be subsceptible to hot spots. A book that is often recommended in helping to deal with allergies is Dr. Plechner's Pet Allergies (see Bibliography). _________________________________________________________________ The Golden Retriever Club of America (GRCA) The GRCA was started on May 6, 1938 when it was incorporated in the state of Colorado. Today, the club is one of the oldest and largest breed clubs in the United States with over five thousand members. The GRCA has an open membership policy. Some clubs have fairly restricted access to membership, but the GRCA decided that the way to promote the well being of the breed was by encouraging membership. The GRCA has several programs: * A kennel registry. This was started in the late 1989's by an individual who was frustrated to discover that another person had adopted an identical kennel name. The kennel registry is not official, and registering a name doesn't automatically prevent duplication, but the fact that it's registered gets it published and people seem to actively avoid duplication. The registery currectly has over 950 active and historical kennel names. * The Versatility Certificate program. * The Public Awareness Letter (PAL). This is a pamphlet freely available from the club and is also mailed out to persons registering their Golden Retrievers with the AKC. * Club funding of a Public Education Coordinator (PEC) on Prodigy; PEC's on other forums may soon follow. * WC and WCX certificates for Golden Retrievers. These are basic tests of a dog's hunting ability. * Pamphlets and Booklets available: + "An Introduction To The Golden Retriever," 1987, $5 For the new or prospective Golden Retriever Owner. Information on selection, care, training, breeding and exhibiting. 75pp, illus. paperback. + "Yearbook", yearly editions, The GRCA puts together "yearbooks" that list dogs achieving titles. Those that achieve more advanced titles have pictures and 3-generation pedigrees. These are available from 1938 onwards. + A list of Golden Retrievers with CERF/OFA ratings. GRCA MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION AS OF 1995 Must submit a new member application, endorsed by a GRCA member in good standing, to Deborah Ascher, 102 North County Road 21, Berthoud, CO 80513 (you can also request applications). * Single dues $15.00, plus $25 for Golden Retriever News subscription, total $40 * Family dues $20.00, plus $25 for Golden Retriever News subscription, total $45 * One-time initiation fee is $10.00 GRCA Secretary for 1994 (about to change in Feb or Mar 1995) Cathy Bird 2005 NE 78th St. Kansas City, MO 64118 (816) 436-0394 GRCA Breeder/ Puppy Referrals/ GRCA Breed General Information/ GRCA Breed Standard Brigitte Konrad 703-341-7356 Ann Grundy 313-281-0814 GRCA Public Education Gloria Dittman 708-438-3346 Gloria is active on Prodigy and Internet and can be reached at CRMX70A@prodigy.com. _________________________________________________________________ The Golden Retriever Club of Canada (GRCC) Pat Renshaw R.R. #1, 4630 Herald Road Mount Albert, Ontario, L0G 1M0 (Canada) (416) 473-3371 The President is Valarie Corner. _________________________________________________________________ Breed Clubs Write or phone your national breed club for information on your local Golden Retriever breed club. Even if you are not interested in breeding or showing in conformation, contact with such a club will help you keep well informed and you may find other events of interest. If you are primarily interested in hunting or obedience, it's still a good thing to join the club to help reduce the separation between the different interests. The more diverse a club's members are, the more knowledge that is pooled, the more well rounded its dogs can be. _________________________________________________________________ Hunting Clubs North American Hunting Retriever Association P.O. Box 1590 Stafford, VA 22555 Tel: 800-421-4026 (they can direct you to clubs in your area) NAVHDA (North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association) Box 520 Arlington Heights, IL 60006 NSTRA-GD (National Shoot To Retrieve Association) 226 North Mill Street #2 Plainfield, IN 46168 317-839-4059 Quail Unlimited National Headquarters P. O. Box 610 Edgefield, SC 29824-0610 For information about starting your own local chapter, if one does not already exist in your locale, direct your query to Winona Overholt, Assistant Director of Chapter Development at the same address or phone 1-803-637-5731. _________________________________________________________________ Golden Retriever Rescue There are many active chapters on Golden Retriever Rescue throughout the nation. GRCA publishes a list of rescue programs at the beginning of each year. You should also try contacting your local breed club for information as well. _________________________________________________________________ The Golden Retriever Email List You can subscribe to this list by sending email to listserv@hobbes.ucsd.edu with subscribe golden in the body of your message (not the subject line) where you should replace (including the brackets) with your own real name. For example, subscribe golden Cindy Moore The list is maintained by Wade Blomgren (wade@hobbes.ucsd.edu). There are many active and knowledgeable people on this list and it's a very friendly atmosphere. _________________________________________________________________ The Golden Retriever WWW page There is a Golden Retriever WWW page which includes information on Golden Retriever rescue groups, breeders, pointers to other Golden Retriever related information available on Internet as well as pictures of several Goldens. The URL for the Golden Retriever WWW page is: http://www.rahul.net/hredlus/golden.html The Golden WWW page is maintained by Helen Redlus (hredlus@rahul.net). _________________________________________________________________ Bibliography PRIMARY BOOKS Bauer, Nona Kilgore. The World of the Golden Retriever: A Dog for All Seasons; TFH Publications, Inc.; Neptune City, NJ; c1993; 480pp; indexed; illus.; bibliography; ISBN 0-86622-694-X. The most thorough book available to date on Golden Retrievers. Covers history, the standard, conformation, performance events (including but not limited to obedience, agility, field, tracking), working dogs (service dogs, therapy dogs, guide dogs, drug detection, arson detection, search and rescue, hearing dogs), genetic and helath disorders, the breed in other countries, and Golden rescue. This book is very well illustrated and has up-to-date information on present day dogs and breeders. Well worth this high purchase price; coffee-table size with hundreds of full color photos. Fischer, Gertrude. The New Complete Golden Retriever; Howell Book house; New York, NY; c1984 - 2nd edition; 304pp; illus.; bibliography; ISBN 0-87605-185-9. A "bible" for the breed. The 2nd revised edition contains a detailed history of the breed, an analysis of the standard by Rachel Page Elliot; information on field training by Forrest Flashman and Ann Walters; British field trials by Dora Gostyn; a short history of obedience dogs from 1945-1983; novice and tracking training tips from Eidth Munneke, and chapters on conformation, care, grooming, and puppies. There is also a chapter on guide dogs and children and Goldens. This book focuses on text, even though it has very nice black and white photos. Pepper, Jeffrey, The Golden Retriever; TFH Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ; c1984; 320pp; illus.; indexed; ISBN 0-87666-668-3. This book covers similar topics to those of Bauer and Fischer with more emphasis on specific dogs and kennels. There are very worthwhile chapters on purchasing a puppy, grooming, and breeding. Wonderful color and black and white photos. The above mentioned authors have over 100 combined years of experience in Goldens. OTHER BOOKS Foss, Valerie. Golden Retrievers Today. Howell Book House. 160 pages hardcover $25.00 Nicholas, Anna Katherine, The Book of the Golden Retriever. Great photos of great Goldens from the past, some history on older kennels (some still existing, others not). Good for researching pedigrees. Sawtell, Louise. All About the Golden Retriever. Pelham Books Ltd: London. Chapters on Goldens worldwide. Schneider, Evelyn M., The Golden Retriever; Denlinger's Fairfax, VA; c1986; 96pp.; illus.; ISBN 0-87714-122-3. Not much substance or depth; nice black and white illustrations. Recommended only for those people who have to have EVERYTHING written on the breed. Shaul, H. Edwin; The Golden Retriever; Indian Springs Press, Boston, MA; c1954; 119pp.; illus.; no ISBN, out of print. The first book written on the Golden Retriever in the US. Some information on the history of the breed, but deals mostly with general dog care and training. Tudor, Joan; The Golden Retriever; Popular Dogs, Londong, England; c1974; 245pp.; few illus.; index; no ISBN Written by a pillar of the breed, this text includes substantial chapters on the origin of the breed, its history from 1900-1939 and post war. Appendices include lists of postwar registrations and title holders. There are the usual chapters on breeding, showing, training, and health. Tudor, Joan; The Golden Retriever Puppy Book; Medea Publishing Co., Washington DC; c1986; 111pp,; illus,; ISBN 0-9110-08-2. A better summary of the Golden Retriever than her previous book. Includes purchasing a puppy, raising a puppy, breeding, whelping, puppy care from birth to weaning, breed standards (British, American, Canadian); history of the breed (in England, America, Canada, and other countries). A fairly good overview. Wist, Michael; The Complete Guide to the Golden Retriever; Boydell Press, Suffolk, England; c1988; 183pp.; illus,; ISBN 0-85115-507-3. More field oriented, there are excellent chapters on early training as well as more advanced. Chapters are also included on showing, obedience and agility, British Veterinary Association and Kennel Club, Hereditary Eye Defects, and Hip Dysplasia Schemes, epilepsy, and breeding. Breeders Directory To Golden Retriever Pedigrees 1971; Purebred Associates, Inc., Melrose Park, PA, c1971; 56pp.; illus.; no ISBN, out of print. A collection of photos and pedigrees of historical interest for pedigree buffs. Breeders Directory To Golden Retriever Pedigrees 1974; Purebred Associates, Inc., Melrose Park, PA, c1974; 57pp.; illus.; no ISBN, out of print. Similar to the 1971 edition. Golden Retriever Top Producers 1965-1988; HIS Publications, Fresno, CA; c1988; 253pp.; few illus.; no ISBN, out of print. edited by Irene Castle Schlintz and Harold Schlintz. A statistical presentation of top producers that provides information on offspring. Similar information is available in the GRCA Yearbooks in a different format. Reflections (1985) Reflections (1989) Magazine special issues from GRCA that provide approximately 150 pages of advertising, feature articles, and photos -- many in full color. Discontinued when GRCA started providing full color in the bimonthly newsletter. Still available for purchase through GRCA. Solid Gold. Write to Deni Elliott, Royal Ok, MI, c1977; 36pp.; illus; no ISBN, out of print and privately printed. Similar to Breeder's Directory above -- full page collection of photos and pedigrees. RELATED, USEFUL BOOKS Bailey, Joan. How to Help Gun Dogs Train Themselves. Swan Valley Press 2401 NE Cornell Rd., # 140 Hillsboro, OR 97124 (1-800-356-9315) Good coverage of the first year in the life of versatile and pointing dogs. Free, James Lamb. Training Retrievers. A classic. It outlines the long-standing training methods for field dogs. A good book even if some of it is outdated. An excellent description of training a dog to handle. Plechner, Alfred, DVM. Pet Allergies: Remedies for an Epidemic. While Dr. Plechner is not universally acclaimed by the veterinary community, his book does contain a number of suggestions that have helped people with dogs that had severe or difficult to diagnose problems with allergies. Rutherford,, Clarice and Cherylon Loveland. Retriever Puppy Training: The Right Start for Hunting, Alpine Publications, 1990. Good step-by-step training methods, explained and illustrated clearly. Rutherford, Clarice, Barbara Brandstad, and Sandra Whicker. Retriever Working Certificate Training, Alpine Publications, 1986. Spencer, James B. Training Retrievers for the Marshes and Meadows. Denlinger Publications in Fairfax, VA. It starts with puppy selection and goes on up to advanced marks and blinds. It is oriented toward the amateur gundog trainer and is well written aand comprehensive. Spencer, James B. Retriever Training Tests. Prentice Hall Press. Helps you to set up training situations and teaches you how the dog should react to things like hills, cover, land-water-land retrieves, how the wind affects them, etc. Lots of good problem solving materieals. _________________________________________________________________ Periodicals The Golden Quarterly Golden Retriever News. Publicshed by the GRCA and available only to members. Many educational articles and issues of concern. Highly recommended. _________________________________________________________________ MISC The Yankee Golden Retriever Rescue calendar is one of the "Golden Goodie" items YGRR offers every year to raise money for rescue. The calendar features YGRR goldens, and there is some fierce--but good-natured-- competition among rescue members to get their dogs in the calendar. If you would like a "Golden Goodies" catalogue, send your request to: Yankee Golden Retriever Rescue, Inc. P.O. Box 104 North Reading MA 01864 _________________________________________________________________ Golden Retriever FAQ Cindy Tittle Moore, (tittle@netcom.com) Helen Redlus, (hredlus@rahul.net)